Chapter Thirty-Four March 24, 2007- May 1, 2007

We bid a fond farewell to our friends in Mykonos on April 1st. And headed for Syros, just 18 nm away where Seraphim rested for the winter. We spent exactly four weeks preparing the boat for the season, record time, in fact. Fortunately, we were able to do some of the more difficult jobs while in Mykonos in the fall. The work was hard and steady but we launched as planned to the day!

Of course, John never seems to think he’s done; here he is still painting the bottom as the tractor pulls the boat away.


We did take out two days while in Syros to explore. One experience was to celebrate the festivities around Easter which were wonderful. Easter is the biggest holiday of the year here in Greece, far more important than Christmas. Emphasis is placed on the Resurrection rather than on the Crucifixion, so it is a joyous occasion. The festival begins on Good Friday when a representation of Christ’s funeral is carried through the streets to the local church. In Syros three churches converged in the town square. The Town Hall was bathed in purple light for the occasion.


The moving candlelit procession is conducted in villages throughout the country. The Resurrection Mass begins at 11 P.M. on Saturday evening. At midnight, packed churches are plunged into darkness to symbolize Christ’s passing. The ceremony of the lighting of the candles that follows is the most significant moment in the Orthodox year. The flame has been brought from the “mother church” in Constantinople (the Greeks still refer to Istanbul as “Constantinople”). The celebration ends in fireworks which seemed most appropriate, although somewhat dangerous. (There were small explosions all around us.) The Lenten fast ends on Easter Sunday with the cracking of red-dyed Easter eggs and an outdoor feast of roast lamb followed by Greek dancing. On our bus ride to the coast for our Easter dinner we saw dozens of lambs being roasted on their spits. Easter in Syros was charming.

Our second “day off” was to enjoy the countryside. We made friends with, Henk, a fellow sailor from Belgium. Henk introduced us to the countryside via motorcycle one late afternoon while on our way to use his washing machine. That gave us the itch to explore further. So we rented a car and ventured out. The rolling hills, ancient walls, stone houses scattered throughout the hills and grazing animals were pristine and delightful. We meandered through the hills and even followed the tracks of a bee-keeper for part of the afternoon. Fortunately we were able to dodge the strays. Lunch was in a small, local taverna with spectacular views of the sea.


Syros is a lovely island in the center of the Cyclades. Here we met wonderful people, as we have everywhere in Greece. John made friends with our chandler who led to evening dinners and good camaraderie. The wonderful thing about Syros is that it is a year-round island, unlike Mykonos. It has 20,000 inhabitants and a very active community. This was a welcome change from our winter home and we enjoyed the scurry of activity. Syros was once the ship building capital of the world back in the mid 1830s. The industry flourished and attracted expert builders and captains from ports all over the world. This benefited trade and brought about other important industries including tanning, iron and even insurance. This peak period of prosperity and economic growth is reflected in the magnificent neoclassical mansions in the heart of town overlooking the sea. These are large stately homes, usually three floors to catch the views with magnificent detail including wrought iron windows and balconies. Unfortunately, most are crumbling from neglect but slowly courageous Greeks are purchasing them for ridiculously low prices with hopes of saving them. Our friend, Manoulis, recently purchased one consisting of 18 rooms. He says he has to wait to afford the reconstruction but he really wanted to save this beautiful house.

Syros consists of two tall “pyramid type” hills located just above the port. One is the Catholic hill, the other is the Orthodox hill. To reach the top of Ano Syra, the Catholic community, one must climb 870 wide cobbled steps. There are no cars on the hill, just winding narrow backstreets, twisting each and every way to give a full view of the city below. Walking along the intricate network of alleyways, you have the feeling that you’ve walked “back in time”. There are tunnels built of stone, common areas, miniscule backyards and you’re often confused with what’s public and what’s not. But it all adds to the character. Take a look.


Then there’s the people…..


What we found most interesting about Syros is the dichotomy of lifestyles. While touring through the countryside we encountered a simplicity and almost primitive lifestyle which was very enticing. There are still people here who travel via donkey and live off the vast barren land without electricity and running water. Their homes are often two rooms built of solid stone surrounded by rugged farmland.

Our friend Henk’s house has been expanded in the last several decades, but parts of his home are 900 years old!

Conversely, walking through downtown Syros is as modern an experience as almost any American town, with people attached to their cell phones. Adding spice to the experience is the magnificent difference between each island. Each has its own style, its own personality and much to enjoy. There is tremendous rivalry between them too, which adds even more flavor!


Food has been a fun experience here in Greece, too. Pork, of course, is a staple. But the Easter season introduces many rituals. Every morsel is laced with symbolism. Carnival refers to the three weeks of indulgence when you can smell the grills cooking meat everywhere. The forty days of Lent are the best time to eat vegetarian fare, with special dishes that have no meat or dairy products, or even oil if you go strictly by the book. “Tsoureki”, a brioche style bread is a favorite. Sharon has mastered “tzatziki”, a traditional “side” served at almost every meal. It is yoghurt heavily laced with garlic, cucumber, oil and oregano served with a chunk of bread. Yum. The hills are full of thyme and sage everywhere. We grabbed as much as we could use while walking.

Now that we’ve seen Syros and Seraphim is sparkling, we’re ready to move on. We will greet our first guest in early May for a three week tour of the Northern Greek islands. Jon is a long time friend from New York and an avid sailor. We expect to show him Evia, Skiathos, Skyros, Pigueri and eventually Thessaloniki. We are really looking forward to a leisurely summer. Following Jon’s departure we will welcome our 16 year old niece who will spend six weeks with us enjoying the Northeastern Aegean Islands. Sarah has never been out of the United States so it would be fair to say we may surprise and delight her with a few experiences this summer! By the end of July, we will tuck Seraphim in a marina in Marmaris, Turkey before we fly home for a family wedding. But a lot will happen in between! Until next time,

Γειά σος!